Cosmetic composition comprising an urea or amide based alpha-alkoxysilane

ABSTRACT

The invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular a composition for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, preferably a nail makeup, comprising the compound of chemical formula (I) below: (I) in which: m represents an integer equal to 0 or 1; n represents an integer between 2 and 8; R1 represents a group (C 1 -C 20 )alkyl or an aryl group, or alternatively, when m is equal to 0, R 1  may also represent a carbonyl; R2 and R3 represent an ethoxy group or a group (C 1 -C 20 )alkyl, optionally substituted with an amino group; Y represents a polyurea or a polyurethane or alternatively a hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 2 to 100 carbon atoms. The invention also relates to a cosmetic process, in particular a makeup or hair shaping process, preferably a process for making up keratin materials, in particular the nails and/or the hair, characterized in that it comprises at least one step which consists in applying a cosmetic composition as above defined to keratin materials.

A subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition of sol/geltype for making up and/or caring for keratin materials.

The use of sol/gel techniques for the purposes of preparing cosmeticcompositions is known per se. Such compositions form films afterapplication to keratin materials. After drying, a hybrid material is infact formed by polycondensation and crosslinking at the nanometricscale.

For example, patent application WO 98/44906 discloses a cosmetic ordermatological composition suitable for forming a coating on keratinmaterials via a reaction of sol/gel type obtained by mixing (A) at leastone organometallic compound with (B) at least one functionalized organicpolymer or at least one functionalized silicone polymer other than thefirst compound, and (C) an amount of water sufficient to hydrolyse theorganometallic compound.

There is a need to provide compositions using sol/gel reactions thatallow stability properties before they are applied to keratin materialsin addition to good reactivity, and that also allow long remanence afterapplication.

Rapid drying of the film or coating obtained is also sought.

Specifically, the coat of the composition deposited on the keratinmaterials may, if the reaction takes place slowly and if it does not dryquickly, prove to be tacky after its application and/or to be degradedon contact with foreign bodies, for instance a glass, a cigarette, anitem of clothing or the skin, which will be an inconvenience to users.

In addition, properties of remanence on washing with water and withdetergents are sought.

Finally, it is sought to obtain a strong, adherent film.

The inventors have found that such advantages may be obtained by usingalpha-alkoxysilanes comprising, in the position alpha to thealkoxysilane, an amide or urea group.

The presence of an electron-donating group alpha to the silicon allowsimproved reactivity with atmospheric moisture, and within a short time,in comparison with alkoxysilanes not comprising such anelectron-donating group.

Compositions based on alpha-alkoxysilanes comprising an amide or ureagroup alpha to the alkoxysilane have already been described, especiallyin patent application US 2008/0 269 406. However, the nitrogen atoms ofthe said amide and urea functions of the said application are free, incontrast with those of the present invention.

Thus, the subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition, inparticular a composition for making up and/or caring for keratinmaterials, preferably a nail makeup, comprising the compound of chemicalformula (I) below:

in which:

m represents an integer equal to 0 or 1;

n represents an integer between 1 and 8;

R1 represents a group (C₁-C₂₀)alkyl or an aryl group, or alternatively,when m is equal to 0, R₁ may also represent a carbonyl;

R2 and R3 represent an ethoxy group or a group (C₁-C₂₀)alkyl, optionallysubstituted with an amino group;

Y represents a polyurea or a polyurethane or alternatively ahydrocarbon-based group comprising from 2 to 100 carbon atoms,

the said hydrocarbon-based group possibly being a linear or branchedmonovalent or multivalent, optionally unsaturated group, optionallybearing one or more aromatic or non-aromatic cyclic groups,

the said carbon atoms possibly being substituted with one or more groupschosen from an ethoxy group and an amino group,

one or more of the said carbon atoms possibly being independentlyreplaced with

-   -   a nitrogen atom,    -   a group —SiO—,    -   a polydimethylsiloxane group,

in which z may be between 1 and 20, or

-   -   a carbonyl group,

the said hydrocarbon-based group possibly forming with the group R1 oneor more rings, depending on its valency.

According to one preferred embodiment, a subject of the presentinvention is a cosmetic composition as described above in which nrepresents an integer between 2 and 8.

In the context of the present invention, the term:

-   -   “keratin materials” denotes the skin, the lips and/or        integuments such as the nails and keratin fibres, for example        the eyelashes, the eyebrows and the hair;    -   “alkoxysilane” denotes a compound comprising at least one        silicon atom bearing at least one alkoxy group;    -   “property of stability before application” denotes the ability        to remain in liquid form, i.e. not to gel, before application to        the keratin materials;    -   “hydrocarbon-based group” denotes a linear or branched        monovalent or multivalent, optionally unsaturated group        containing carbon and hydrogen atoms, optionally bearing one or        more aromatic or non-aromatic cyclic groups, bearing from 2 to        100 carbon atoms;    -   “(C₁-C₂₀)alkyl” denotes a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated        or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 1 to 20        carbon atoms. Mention may be made in particular of cyclohexyl        and methyl groups;    -   “aryl” denotes an aromatic bearing from 5 to 14 carbon atoms.        Mention may in particular be made of the benzyl group or the        phenyl group;    -   “carbonyl” denotes the group having the following formula:

-   -   “amino” denotes the group having the following formula: —NH₂    -   “polyurea” denotes a group having the following formula:

in which R represents a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated orunsaturated hydrocarbon-based group, comprising from 1 to 50 andespecially from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, R′ represents a linear, branchedor cyclic, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group, comprisingfrom 1 to 50 and especially from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, R″ represents ahydrogen atom or a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturatedhydrocarbon-based group comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, and nrepresents an integer between 1 and 10;

-   -   “polyurethane” denotes a group having the following formula:

in which R represents a polyether group, a polyester group or a linear,branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group,comprising from 1 to 50 and especially from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, R′represents a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturatedhydrocarbon-based group, comprising from 1 to 50 and especially from 1to 20 carbon atoms, and n represents an integer between 1 and 10;

-   -   “(C₁-C₃)aminoalkyl” denotes a linear, branched or cyclic,        saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group comprising from        1 to 3 carbon atoms, one of the carbon atoms being substituted        with a group —NH₂;    -   “(C₁-C₂₀)alkylene” denotes a linear or branched saturated        divalent alkyl group comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms;    -   “between” denotes inclusively between.

The compound of formula (I) according to the invention may be obtainedby reaction between an alpha-amino ethoxysilane and:

-   -   an isocyanate (when n is equal to 1) or a polyisocyanate when m        is equal to 1,    -   an acid (when n is equal to 1), an anhydride, a polyacid, an        ester (when n is equal to 1) or a polyester when m is equal to        0.

The starting materials are either commercially available or obtainedaccording to methods known to those skilled in the art.

As regards the alpha-amino ethoxysilanes, examples that may be mentionedinclude (N-cyclohexylaminomethyl)triethoxysilane sold by Gelest underthe name SIC2464.2 and (N-cyclohexylaminomethyl)methyldiethoxysilanesold by Aber under the name AB152160.

As regards the isocyanates or polyisocyanates, examples that may bementioned include isophorone diisocyanate sold by Evonik under the nameVestanat® IPDI or the equimolar mixture of 2,2,4-trimethylhexamethylenediisocyanate and of 2,4,4-trimethylhexamethylene diisocyanate sold byEvonik under the name Vestanat® TMDI.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic process, in particular a makeupor hair shaping process, preferably a process for making up keratinmaterials, in particular the nails and/or the hair, comprising at leastone step which consists in applying the cosmetic composition accordingto the invention to keratin materials.

A cosmetic composition according to the present invention is liquid.

In the context of the present invention, the term “liquid composition”means a composition which has a particular viscosity at roomtemperature, i.e. at 20° C.

More specifically, a liquid composition has, at 20° C., a viscosityranging from 0.001 to 20 Pa/s, preferably from 0.01 to 10 Pa/s and evenmore preferably from 0.1 to 2 Pa/s.

The viscosity measurement may be carried out at 20° C. using a RheomatRM180 viscometer equipped with a No. 4 rotor, the measurement beingperformed after 10 minutes of rotation of the rotor in the composition(after which time stabilization of the viscosity and of the spin speedare observed), at a shear rate of 200 s⁻¹.

Alpha-Alkoxysilanes

According to one of its aspects, a subject of the present invention is acosmetic composition comprising the compound of chemical formula (I) forwhich Y represents a polyurea, a polyurethane or a group Y chosen fromone of the groups of formulae (II) to (XXIII) below when m is equal to 0or 1 and from one of the groups of formulae (XXIV) to (XXVII) below whenm is equal to 0 and R1 represents a carbonyl group:

in which:

x being between 1 and 10;

when m is equal to 1, then x is preferably equal to 3;

when m is equal to 0, then x is between 2 and 4;

in which y is between 1 and 6 and, preferably, y is between 1 and 4;

in which:

R7 represents a group (C₁-C₂₀)alkyl, an aryl group or a group(C₁-C₂₀)alkylene linked to R1, preferably a group (C₁-C₂₀)alkylenelinked to R1;

R8 and R9 independently represent an ethoxy group or a group(C₁-C₂₀)alkyl optionally substituted with an amino group, preferably amethyl or a group (C₁-C₃)aminoalkyl;

in which:

X₁ and X₂ independently represent a covalent bond linked to the groupR1, the said group R1 representing a carbonyl;

A represents a group (C₁-C₂₀)alkylene, a carbonyl group or apolydimethylsiloxane having the following formula

in which z may be between 1 and 20;

in which X₃ and X₄ independently represent a covalent bond linked to thegroup R1, the said group R1 representing a carbonyl;

in which X₅ and X₆ independently represent a covalent bond linked to thegroup R1, the said group R1 representing a carbonyl;

in which:

X₇ represents a covalent bond linked to the group R1, the said group R1representing a carbonyl;

R10, R11, R12 and R13 independently represent an ethoxy group or a group(C₁-C₂₀)alkyl optionally substituted with an amino group, preferably amethyl or a group (C₁-C₃)aminoalkyl.

According to one particular embodiment, a subject of the presentinvention is a cosmetic composition comprising the compound of chemicalformula (I) for which Y has a molar mass of less than 3000 g/mol,preferably less than 1500 g/mol and preferentially less than 1000 g/mol.

According to one particular embodiment, a subject of the presentinvention is a cosmetic composition comprising the compound of chemicalformula (I) for which n is between 2 and 4, and preferably n is equal to2.

According to one particular embodiment, a subject of the presentinvention is a cosmetic composition comprising the compound of chemicalformula (I) for which R1 represents a cyclohexyl or phenyl group, andpreferably R1 represents a cyclohexyl group.

According to one particular embodiment, a subject of the presentinvention is a cosmetic composition comprising the compound of chemicalformula (I) for which m is equal to 0 and R1 represents a carbonylgroup, the said group R1 moreover being linked via a covalent bond toone of the atoms of the group Y.

According to one particular embodiment, a subject of the presentinvention is a cosmetic composition comprising the compound of chemicalformula (I) for which R2 and R3 independently represent a methyl group,a group (C₁-C₃)aminoalkyl or an ethoxy group.

According to one particular embodiment, a subject of the presentinvention is a cosmetic composition comprising the compound of chemicalformula (I) for which m is equal to 1.

According to one particular embodiment, a subject of the presentinvention is a cosmetic composition comprising the compound of chemicalformula (I) for which Y is a hydrocarbon-based group as defined above,comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms.

According to one particular aspect of this embodiment, a subject of thepresent invention is a cosmetic composition comprising the compound ofchemical formula (I) for which Y is a saturated hydrocarbon-based groupcomprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms, in particular represented byformulae (II) to (VII) as defined previously.

Still according to this same embodiment, the present invention consistsof a cosmetic composition comprising the compound of chemical formula(I) for which Y is represented by formula (III), (IV) or (V) as definedpreviously.

According to one preferred embodiment, a subject of the presentinvention is a cosmetic composition comprising the compound of chemicalformula (I) in a content of greater than or equal to 20% by weight andpreferably greater than 50% by weight relative to the total weight ofthe composition.

Composition

The composition according to the invention is preferably anhydrous.

The term “anhydrous” refers to a composition comprising a content ofless than or equal to 0.5% by weight of water relative to the totalweight of the composition. The term “anhydrous” especially means thatwater is preferably not deliberately added to the compositions, but maybe present in trace amount in the various compounds used in thecompositions.

According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to theinvention has a solids content of greater than or equal to 50% andpreferably greater than 70%.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “solids content”denotes the content of non-volatile matter.

The solids content (abbreviated as SC) of a composition according to theinvention is measured using a “Halogen Moisture Analyzer HR83”commercial halogen desiccator from Mettler Toledo. The measurement isperformed on the basis of the weight loss of a sample dried by halogenheating, and thus represents the percentage of residual matter once thewater and the volatile matter have evaporated off.

This technique is fully described in the machine documentation suppliedby Mettler Toledo.

The measuring protocol is as follows:

Approximately 2 g of the composition, referred to hereinbelow as thesample, are spread out on a metal crucible, which is placed in thehalogen desiccator mentioned above. The sample is then subjected to atemperature of 120° C. for 1 hour. The wet mass of the sample,corresponding to its initial mass, and the dry mass of the sample,corresponding to its mass after halogen heating, are measured using aprecision balance.

The values measured by means of the protocol described above may differfrom the corresponding theoretical values by plus or minus 1%.

The solids content is calculated in the following manner:

Solids content (expressed as weight percentage)=100×(dry mass/wet mass).

Other Alkoxysilane Compound

According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to thepresent invention also comprises at least one other compound comprisingat least one alkoxysilane group.

The term “compound comprising at least one alkoxysilane group”preferably denotes a compound of formula Si(OR²)₄ or of formula R¹_(x)Si(OR²)_((4-x)) or of formula [R¹_(y)(OR²)_(z)SiO_(((4-y-z)/2))]_(n) in which:

-   -   R¹ represents, independently, a nucleophilic group other than a        silanol, or a group (C₁-C₂₀)alkyl, optionally substituted with        at least one nucleophilic group other than a silanol,    -   R² represents, independently, a hydrogen atom or a group        (C₁-C₁₀)alkyl,    -   x represents 1 or 2,    -   y represents, independently, 1 or 2,    -   z represents, independently, 0, 1 or 2,    -   the sum of y and z being less than or equal to 3,    -   and n represents an integer between 2 and 1000.

Polar Volatile Solvent

According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to thepresent invention also comprises at least one polar volatile solvent.

The term “polar volatile solvent” denotes, in the present invention, acompound which is liquid at ambient temperature, which comprises atleast one polar group such as a hydroxyl, ester, ketone, ether oraldehyde group, and which has a vapour pressure greater than 1 mbar at20° C.

Among the polar volatile solvents that may be used in the compositionsin accordance with the invention, mention may be made especially oflower monoalcohols containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanoland isopropanol, C₃-C₄ ketones, C₂-C₄ aldehydes and C₂-C₄ short-chainesters, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the polar volatile solventsare chosen from C₃-C₄ ketones, preferentially acetone, and C₂-C₄short-chain esters, preferentially ethyl acetate, and mixtures thereof.

Film-Forming Polymer

According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to theinvention may also comprise at least one film-forming polymer. Inparticular, when the composition according to the present invention isin the form of a nail varnish, such a film-forming polymer mayadvantageously be present in the composition.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “film-formingpolymer” denotes a polymer that is capable, by itself or in the presenceof an auxiliary film-forming agent, of forming an isolable andespecially continuous and adherent film, on a support. This support mayespecially be the nails.

A single film-forming polymer or a mixture of film-forming polymers maybe used in the composition.

This film-forming polymer may be chosen from the group formed bysynthetic polymers of radical type or of polycondensate type, andpolymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof.

According to the invention, film-forming polymers that are soluble ordispersible in an organic solvent may be used.

A film-forming polymer that is suitable for use in the invention may bechosen in particular from:

-   -   polysaccharides. Among the polysaccharides that are suitable for        use in the invention, examples that may be mentioned include        cellulose esters and ethers, such as nitrocellulose, cellulose        acetate, cellulose acetobutyrate, cellulose acetopropionate and        ethylcellulose, or alternatively optionally modified guar gum,        such as ethylguar;    -   synthetic polymers such as polyurethanes, acrylic polymers,        vinyl polymers, polyvinyl butyrals, alkyd resins and        ketone/aldehyde resins, resins derived from aldehyde        condensation products, such as arylsulfonamide-formaldehyde        resins, for instance toluenesulfonamide-formaldehyde resin,        arylsulfonamide-epoxy resins or ethyl tosylamide resins;    -   polymers of natural origin, such as plant resins, such as dammar        resins, elemi gums, copal resins, and benzoin; gums such as        shellac, sandarac gum and gum mastic.

Use may in particular be made, as film-forming polymers, of thetoluenesulfonamide/formaldehyde resins Ketjentflex MS80 from Akzo orSantolite MHP or Santolite MS 80 from Faconnier or Resimpol 80 from PanAmericana, the alkyd resin Beckosol ODE 230-70-E from Dainippon, theacrylic resin Acryloid B66 from Röhm & Haas, the polyurethane resinTrixene PR 4127 from Baxenden or the acetophenone/formaldehyde resinsold under the reference Synthetic Resin SK by Degussa.

According to one particular embodiment, the film-forming polymer ischosen from polysaccharides or polysaccharide derivatives, preferablyfrom nitrocellulose, and cellulose ethers and esters.

For example, the content of film-forming polymer may range from 0.1% to30% by weight, especially from 0.5% to 20% by weight and in particularfrom 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of thecomposition.

According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to theinvention comprises as film-forming polymer at least cellulosederivatives, polyesters or polyurethanes.

Plasticizer

According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to theinvention comprises at least one plasticizer.

In particular, mention may be made, alone or as mixtures, ofplasticizers such as:

-   -   glycols containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms such as glycerol,        propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and dipropylene glycol,    -   glycol derivatives such as diethylene glycol ethyl ether,        diethylene glycol methyl ether, diethylene glycol butyl ether or        diethylene glycol hexyl ether, ethylene glycol ethyl ether,        ethylene glycol butyl ether and ethylene glycol hexyl ether,    -   glycol esters,    -   propylene glycol derivatives and in particular propylene glycol        phenyl ether, propylene glycol diacetate, dipropylene glycol        butyl ether, tripropylene glycol butyl ether, propylene glycol        methyl ether, dipropylene glycol ethyl ether, tripropylene        glycol methyl ether, diethylene glycol methyl ether and        propylene glycol butyl ether,    -   fatty alcohols that are liquid at ambient temperature, with a        branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from        12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl        alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and        2-undecylpentadecanol,    -   higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or        linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof,    -   esters of acids, in particular carboxylic acids, such as the        monoesters of formula R₁COOR₂ in which R₁ represents the residue        of a linear or branched acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon        atoms and R₂ represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, which is in        particular branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms,        provided that R₁+R₂>10, triglycerides consisting of fatty acid        esters glycerol, the fatty acids of which can have varied chain        lengths from C₄ to C₂₄, citrates, in particular triethyl        citrate, tributyl citrate, triethyl acetylcitrate, tributyl        acetylcitrate, 2-triethylhexyl acetylcitrate; phthalates, in        particular diethyl phthalate, dibutyl phthalate, dioctyl        phthalate, dipentyl phthalate, dimethoxyethyl phthalate;        trimellitates such as, in particular,        tris(2-ethylhexyl)trimellitate, L7,9-trimellitate,        L8,10-trimellitate; phosphates, in particular tricresyl        phosphate, tributyl phosphate, triphenyl phosphate,        tributoxyethyl phosphate; tartrates, in particular dibutyl        tartrate; adipates, such as, in particular, diethyl adipate and        diisobutyl adipate; carbonates; sebacates; benzyl benzoate,        butyl acetylricinoleate, glyceryl acetylricinoleate, butyl        glycolate, glyceryl triacetate, plasticizers of polyester type,    -   camphor,    -   N-ethyl-o,p-toluenesulfonamide,    -   oxyethylenated derivatives such as oxyethylenated oils, in        particular vegetable oils such as castor oil,    -   linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin,        such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene        such as Parleam®, and squalane, and mixtures thereof, and in        particular hydrogenated polyisobutene,    -   silicone oils. The silicone oils that may be used in the        composition may be non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs),        polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups that are        pendent and/or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups each        containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones, for        instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones,        phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones,        diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl        trimethylsiloxysilicates, and dimethicones or phenyl        trimethicones with a viscosity of less than or equal to 100 cSt,        and mixtures thereof,    -   and mixtures thereof.

The type and amount of plasticizer may be chosen by a person skilled inthe art on the basis of his general knowledge.

For example, the plasticizer content may range from 0.01% to 10% and inparticular from 1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of thecomposition.

According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to theinvention comprises as plasticizer at least one fatty alcohol, or acarboxylic acid ester or polyester.

Wax(es)

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at leastone wax.

The wax(es) under consideration in the context of the present inventionare generally a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature(25° C.), with a solid/liquid reversible change of state, having amelting point of greater than or equal to 30° C., which may be up to200° C. and in particular up to 120° C.

In particular, the waxes that are suitable for the invention may have amelting point of greater than or equal to 45° C. and in particular ofgreater than or equal to 55° C.

For the purposes of the invention, the melting point corresponds to thetemperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis(DSC) as described in standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point ofthe wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC),for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC Q2000 by the companyTA Instruments.

Preferably, the waxes have a heat of fusion ΔHf of greater than or equalto 70 J/g.

Preferably, the waxes comprise at least one crystallizable part, whichis visible by X-ray observation.

The measuring protocol is as follows:

A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a firsttemperature rise ranging from −20° C. to 120° C., at a heating rate of10° C./minute, is then cooled from 120° C. to −20° C. at a cooling rateof 10° C./minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature riseranging from −20° C. to 120° C. at a heating rate of 5° C./minute.During the second temperature rise, the following parameters aremeasured:

the melting point (T_(f)) of the wax, as mentioned previouslycorresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak of themelting curve observed, representing the variation of the difference inpower absorbed as a function of the temperature,

ΔHf: the heat of fusion of the wax, corresponding to the integral entiremelting curve obtained. This heat of fusion of the wax is the amount ofenergy required to make the compound change from the solid state to theliquid state. It is expressed in J/g.

The waxes that may be used in the composition according to the inventionare chosen from waxes that are solid at room temperature, of animal,plant, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.

As illustrations of waxes that are suitable for the invention, mentionmay be made especially of hydrocarbon-based waxes, for instance beeswax,lanolin wax, Chinese insect waxes, rice bran wax, carnauba wax,candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax,Japan wax and sumach wax; montan wax, orange wax and lemon wax,microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, thewaxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, andalso esters thereof.

Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation ofanimal or plant oils containing linear or branched C₈-C₃₂ fatty chains.Among these, mention may be made especially of isomerized jojoba oilsuch as the trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oilmanufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the tradereference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenatedcastor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and thebis(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane)tetrastearate sold under the name Hest2T-4S® by the company Heterene.

Mention may also be made of silicone waxes (C₃₀₋₄₅ alkyl dimethicone)and fluoro waxes.

The waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetylalcohol, sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by thecompany Sophim, may also be used. Such waxes are described inApplication FR-A-2 792 190.

A wax that may be used is a C₂₀-C₄₀ alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate(the alkyl group containing from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as amixture.

Such a wax is especially sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®,Hydroxypolyester K 82 P® and Kester Wax K 80 P® by the company KosterKeunen.

As microwaxes that may be used, mention may be made especially ofcarnauba microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroCare350® by the company Micro Powders, synthetic microwaxes, such as theproduct sold under the name MicroEase 1145® by the company MicroPowders, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax andpolyethylene wax, such as the products sold under the names Micro Care300® and 310® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes consisting of amixture of carnauba wax and of synthetic wax, such as the product soldunder the name Micro Care 325® by the company Micro Powders,polyethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the namesMicropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 2505® by the company Micro Powders, andpolytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under thenames Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company Micro Powders.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise atleast one hydrocarbon-based wax, preferably chosen from polyethylenewaxes, microcrystalline waxes and ozokerite, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the first composition according to the invention comprisesat least one polyethylene wax.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises acontent of wax(es) ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight relative to thetotal weight of the composition; it may in particular contain from 0.5%to 20% and more particularly from 1% to 10% thereof.

Pasty Fatty Substances

The composition according to the invention may also comprise at leastone pasty fatty substance.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “pasty fattysubstance” means a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversiblesolid/liquid change of state, comprising at a temperature of 23° C. aliquid fraction and a solid fraction.

In other words, the starting melting point of the pasty compound can beless than 23° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at23° C. can represent 9% to 97% by weight of the compound. This liquidfraction at 23° C. preferably represents between 15% and 85% and morepreferably between 40% and 85% by weight.

Preferably, the pasty fatty substances have an end melting point of lessthan 60° C.

Preferably, the pasty fatty substances have a hardness of less than orequal to 6 MPa.

Preferably, the pasty fatty substances have, in the solid state, ananisotropic crystal organization, which is visible by X-ray observation.

For the purpose of the invention, the melting point corresponds to thetemperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis(DSC) as described in Standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of apasty substance or of a wax may be measured using a differentialscanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under thename DSC Q2000 by the company TA Instruments.

As regards the measurement of the melting point and the determination ofthe end melting point, the sample preparation and measurement protocolsare as follows:

A sample of 5 mg of pasty fatty substance, preheated to 80° C. andwithdrawn with magnetic stirring using a spatula that is also heated, isplaced in a hermetic aluminium capsule, or a crucible. Two tests areperformed to ensure the reproducibility of the results.

The measurements are performed on the abovementioned calorimeter. Theoven is flushed with nitrogen. Cooling is performed by an RCS 90 heatexchanger. The sample is then subjected to the following protocol: it isfirst placed at a temperature of 20° C., and then subjected to a firsttemperature rise passing from 20° C. to 80° C., at a heating rate of 5°C./minute, then is cooled from 80° C. to −80° C. at a cooling rate of 5°C./minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise passingfrom −80° C. to 80° C. at a heating rate of 5° C./minute. During thesecond temperature rise, the variation in the difference between thepower absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing thesample of paste or wax as a function of the temperature is measured. Themelting point of the compound is the value of the temperaturecorresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing thevariation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of thetemperature.

The end melting point corresponds to the temperature at which 95% of thesample has melted.

The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 23° C. is equalto the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed at 23° C. to the heat offusion of the pasty compound.

The heat of fusion of the pasty compound is the heat consumed by thecompound in order to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. Thepasty compound is said to be in the solid state when all of its mass isin crystalline solid form. The pasty compound is said to be in theliquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form.

The heat of fusion of the pasty compound is equal to the integral of theentire melting curve obtained using the abovementioned colorimeter, witha temperature rise of 5 or 10° C./minute, according to standard ISO11357-3:1999. The heat of fusion of the pasty compound is the amount ofenergy required to make the compound change from the solid state to theliquid state. It is expressed in J/g.

The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23° C. is the amount of energyabsorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state thatit has at 23° C., composed of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32° C. preferablyrepresents from 30% to 100% by weight of the compound, preferably from50% to 100%, more preferably from 60% to 100% by weight of the compound.When the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32° C. isequal to 100%, the temperature of the end of the melting range of thepasty compound is less than or equal to 32° C.

The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32° C. is equal tothe ratio of the heat of fusion consumed at 32° C. to the heat of fusionof the pasty compound. The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32° C. iscalculated in the same way as the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23° C.

As regards the measurement of the hardness, the sample preparation andmeasurement protocols are as follows:

The pasty fatty substance is placed in a mould 75 mm in diameter, whichis filled to about 75% of its height. In order to overcome the thermalhistory and to control the crystallization, the mould is placed in aVötsch VC 0018 programmable oven, where it is first placed at atemperature of 80° C. for 60 minutes, then cooled from 80° C. to 0° C.at a cooling rate of 5° C./minute, and then left at the stabilizedtemperature of 0° C. for 60 minutes, and then subjected to a temperaturerise ranging from 0° C. to 20° C. at a heating rate of 5° C./minute, andthen left at the stabilized temperature of 20° C. for 180 minutes.

The compression force measurement is taken using a TA/TX2i texturometerfrom Swantech. The spindle used is chosen according to the texture:

-   -   cylindrical steel spindle 2 mm in diameter for very rigid        starting materials;    -   cylindrical steel spindle 12 mm in diameter for sparingly rigid        starting materials.

The measurement comprises three steps: a first step after automaticdetection of the surface of the sample, where the spindle moves at ameasuring speed of 0.1 mm/s, and penetrates into the pasty fattysubstance to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm, the software notes themaximum force value reached; a second “relaxation” step where thespindle remains at this position for one second and the force is notedafter 1 second of relaxation; finally, a third “withdrawal” step inwhich the spindle returns to its initial position at a speed of 1 mm/s,and the probe withdrawal energy (negative force) is noted.

The hardness value measured during the first step corresponds to themaximum compression force measured in newtons divided by the area of thetexturometer cylinder expressed in mm² in contact with the pasty fattysubstance. The hardness value obtained is expressed in megapascals orMPa.

The pasty fatty compound may preferably be chosen from syntheticcompounds and compounds of plant origin. A pasty fatty substance may beobtained by synthesis from starting materials of plant origin.

The pasty fatty substance is advantageously chosen from:

-   -   lanolin and derivatives thereof, such as lanolin alcohol,        oxyethylenated lanolins, acetylated lanolin, lanolin esters such        as isopropyl lanolate, and oxypropylenated lanolins,    -   polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds, for instance        polydimethylsiloxanes of high molecular masses,        polydimethylsiloxanes containing side chains of the alkyl or        alkoxy type containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, especially        stearyl dimethicones,    -   polymeric or non-polymeric fluoro compounds,    -   vinyl polymers, especially:    -   olefin homopolymers,    -   olefin copolymers,    -   hydrogenated diene homopolymers and copolymers,    -   linear or branched oligomers, homopolymers or copolymers of        alkyl (meth)acrylates preferably containing a C₈-C₃₀ alkyl        group,    -   oligomers, homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl esters        containing C₈-C₃₀ alkyl groups,    -   oligomers, homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl ethers        containing C₈-C₃₀ alkyl groups,    -   liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification        between one or more C₂-C₁₀₀ and preferably C₂-C₅₀ diols,    -   esters and polyesters,    -   and mixtures thereof.

The pasty fatty substance may be a polymer, especially ahydrocarbon-based polymer.

Among the liposoluble polyethers, mention may be made especially ofcopolymers of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide with C₆-C₃₀alkylene oxides. Preferably, the weight ratio of the ethylene oxideand/or propylene oxide to the alkylene oxides in the copolymer is from5/95 to 70/30. In this family, mention will be made especially of blockcopolymers comprising C₆-C₃₀ alkylene oxide blocks with a molecularweight ranging from 1000 to 10 000, for example apolyoxyethylene/polydodecylene glycol block copolymer such as the ethersof dodecanediol (22 mol) and of polyethylene glycol (45 oxyethylene orOE units) sold under the brand name Elfacos ST9 by Akzo Nobel.

Among the esters, the following are especially preferred:

-   -   esters of a glycerol oligomer, especially diglycerol esters, in        particular condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which        some of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a        mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid,        stearic acid and isostearic acid, and 12-hydroxystearic acid,        especially such as those sold under the brand name Softisan 649        by the company Sasol;    -   phytosterol esters;    -   pentaerythritol esters;    -   esters formed from:        -   at least one C₁₆₋₄₀ alcohol, at least one of the alcohols            being a Guerbet alcohol, and        -   from a diacid dimer formed from at least one C₁₈₋₄₀            unsaturated fatty acid, such as the ester of a dimer of            fatty acids and of tall oil comprising 36 carbon atoms and            of a mixture i) of Guerbet alcohols comprising 32 carbon            atoms and ii) of behenyl alcohol; the ester of a dimer of            linoleic acid and of a mixture of two Guerbet alcohols,            2-tetradecyloctadecanol (32 carbon atoms) and            2-hexadecyleicosanol (36 carbon atoms);    -   non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from the polycondensation        between a linear or branched C₄-C₅₀ dicarboxylic acid or        polycarboxylic acid and a C₂-C₅₀ diol or polyol,    -   polyesters resulting from the esterification between a        polycarboxylic acid and an aliphatic hydroxylated carboxylic        acid, such as Risocast DA-L and Risocast DA-H sold by the        Japanese company Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo, which are esters resulting        from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with        dilinoleic acid or isostearic acid; and    -   aliphatic esters of an ester resulting from the esterification        between an ester of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid and an        aliphatic carboxylic acid, for example the product sold under        the trade name Salacos HCIS (V)-L by the company Nisshin Oil.

A Guerbet alcohol is the reaction product of the Guerbet reaction, whichis well known to those skilled in the art. It is a reaction fortransforming a primary aliphatic alcohol into its β-alkyl dimericalcohol with loss of one equivalent of water.

According to a first embodiment, the composition according to theinvention is free of pasty fatty substances.

According to a second embodiment, the composition according to theinvention comprises at least one pasty fatty substance. The pasty fattysubstance(s) may be present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 40% byweight and especially from 1% to 20% by weight relative to the totalweight of the composition.

Pulverulent Phase

A composition according to the invention may comprise a pulverulentphase.

The content of the said pulverulent phase may be between 0.01% and 40%by weight, in particular between 0.1% and 30% by weight and moreparticularly between 0.1% and 20% by weight relative to the total weightof the composition.

The pulverulent phase may comprise at least one filler and/or at leastone colouring agent.

Fillers

The term “fillers” should be understood as meaning colourless or white,mineral or synthetic particles of any shape, which are insoluble in themedium of the composition, irrespective of the temperature at which thecomposition is manufactured.

The additional fillers may be chosen from fillers such as:

-   -   silica microspheres, especially of open porosity or, preferably,        hollow silica microspheres, such as the products Silica Beads SB        700/HA or Silica Beads SB 700 from the company Maprecos; these        microspheres may be impregnated with a cosmetic active agent;    -   microporous polymer microspheres, which have a structure similar        to that of a sponge; they generally have a specific surface area        of at least 0.5 m²/g and in particular of at least 1 m²/g, the        said specific surface area having no upper limit other than that        resulting from the practical possibility of making microspheres        of very high porosity: the specific surface area may, for        example, be up to 1000 m²/g or even more. Microspheres that may        be mentioned include acrylic polymer microspheres, such as those        made of crosslinked acrylate copolymer Polytrap 6603 Adsorber        from the company RP Scherer, and those made of polymethyl        methacrylate Micropearl M 100 from the company SEPPIC;    -   polyurethane powder, such as the powdered copolymer of        hexamethylene diisocyanate and of trimethylol hexyl lactone sold        under the names Plastic Powder D-400 and T-7 by the company        Toshiki;    -   polymer microcapsules that comprise a single closed cavity and        form a reservoir, which may contain a liquid, especially a        cosmetic active agent; they are prepared via known processes        such as those described in patents U.S. Pat. No. 3,615,972 and        EP-A-056 219. They may be made, for example, of polymers or        copolymers of ethylenically unsaturated acid, amine or ester        monomers, of urea-formaldehyde polymers or of vinylidene        chloride polymers or copolymers; by way of example, mention may        be made of microcapsules made of methyl acrylate or methacrylate        polymers or copolymers, or alternatively of copolymers of        vinylidene chloride and of acrylonitrile; among these polymers,        mention will be made especially of those containing 20-60% by        weight of units derived from vinylidene chloride, 20-60% by        weight of units derived from acrylonitrile and 0-40% by weight        of other units such as units derived from an acrylic and/or        styrene monomer; crosslinked acrylic polymers or copolymers may        also be used;    -   elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane spherical powders,        described especially in document JP-A-02 243 612, such as those        sold under the name Trefil Powder E-506C by the company Dow        Corning;    -   the carnauba wax microbeads sold under the name Microcare 350®        by the company Micro Powders and the paraffin wax microbeads        sold under the name Microease 114S® by the company Micro        Powders;    -   metal soaps in powder form. Among these soaps, mention may be        made especially of metal soaps of fatty acids containing from 12        to 22 carbon atoms and in particular those containing from 12 to        18 carbon atoms. The metal of the metal soap may especially be        zinc or magnesium. The fatty acid may be chosen especially from        lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid and palmitic acid. The        metal soaps that may be used include zinc laurate, magnesium        stearate, magnesium myristate and zinc stearate, and mixtures        thereof;    -   talcs or hydrated magnesium silicates, especially in the form of        particles generally less than 40 μm in size;    -   micas or aluminosilicates of varied composition that are        especially in the form of flakes from 2 to 200 μm and preferably        5-70 μm in size and from 0.1 to 5 μm and preferably 0.2-3 μm in        thickness, these micas possibly being of natural origin (for        example muscovite, margarite, roscoelite, lepidolite or biotite)        or of synthetic origin;    -   clays such as sericites, which belong to the same chemical and        crystalline class as muscovite;    -   kaolin or hydrated aluminium silicate, which is especially in        the form of particles of isotropic forms generally less than 30        μm in size;    -   boron nitrides;    -   powders of tetrafluoroethylene polymers, such as Ceridust 9205 F        from the company Clariant;    -   precipitated calcium carbonate, especially in the form of        particles greater than 10 μm in size;    -   magnesium carbonate and magnesium hydrogen carbonate;    -   hydroxyapatite;    -   powders of non-expanded synthetic polymers, such as        polyethylene, polyesters (for example polyethylene isophthalate        or terephthalate) and polyamides (for example Nylon), in the        form of particles less than 50 μm in size;    -   powders of spheronized, crosslinked or non-crosslinked synthetic        polymers, for instance polyamide powders such as poly-β-alanine        powder or Nylon powder, for example Orgasol powder from the        company Atochem, polyacrylic acid or polymethacrylic acid        powder, powders of polystyrene crosslinked with divinylbenzene,        and silicone resin powders, and    -   bismuth oxychloride powders,    -   powders of organic materials of natural origin, for instance        starches, especially corn starch, wheat starch or rice starch;    -   and mixtures thereof.

A composition according to the invention is advantageously totally freeof filler with a refractive index of greater than 1.8.

As representatives of such fillers, mention may especially be made oftitanium oxides, zinc oxides and bismuth oxychloride powders.

The additional fillers may be present in the composition in a contentranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight and preferably ranging from 0.1% to5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one advantageous variant, a composition according to theinvention may contain as filler a polyurethane powder and/or mica.

Advantageously, a composition according to the invention may comprise atotal content of fillers ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferablyranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight and preferentially ranging from 0.1%to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

As stated above, a composition according to the invention may alsocomprise, in its pulverulent phase, at least one colouring agent.

The said at least one colouring agent or dyestuff according to theinvention preferably comprises pigments, nacres, reflective particles,colorants that are soluble in polar solvents, and/or mixtures thereof.

According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to thepresent invention is characterized in that the said at least onecolouring agent is present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% byweight, in particular from 0.1% to 5% by weight and more preferentiallyfrom 0.5% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of thecomposition; preferably, the said at least one colouring agent comprisesat least one pigment, which is preferentially organic.

Pigments

The term “pigments” should be understood as meaning white or coloured,mineral or organic particles of any form, which are insoluble in thephysiological medium and are intended to colour the composition.

The pigments may be white or coloured, and mineral and/or organic.

Among the mineral pigments that may be mentioned are titanium dioxide,optionally surface-treated, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and alsozinc oxide, iron (black, yellow or red) oxide or chromium oxide,manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue,and metal powders, for instance aluminium powder and copper powder.

The organic pigments may be chosen from the materials below, andmixtures thereof:

-   -   cochineal carmine,    -   organic pigments of azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, indigoid dyes,        xanthene dyes, pyrene dyes, quinoline dyes, triphenylmethane        dyes and fluoran dyes.

Among the organic pigments, mention may be made especially of the D&Ccertified pigments known under the following names: D&C Blue No. 4, D&CBrown No. 1, D&C Green No. 5, D&C Green No. 6, D&C Orange No. 4, D&COrange No. 5, D&C Orange No. 10, D&C Orange No. 11, D&C Red No. 6, D&CRed No. 7, D&C Red No. 17, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 22, D&C Red No.27, D&C Red No. 28, D&C Red No. 30, D&C Red No. 31, D&C Red No. 33, D&CRed No. 34, D&C Red No. 36, D&C Violet No. 2, D&C Yellow No. 7, D&CYellow No. 8, D&C Yellow No. 10, D&C Yellow No. 11, FD&C Blue No. 1,FD&C Green No. 3, FD&C Red No. 40, FD&C Yellow No. 5, FD&C Yellow No. 6.

The chemical materials corresponding to each of the organic dyestuffsmentioned previously are mentioned in the publication “InternationalCosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook”, 1997 edition, pages 371 to386 and 524 to 528, published by The Cosmetic, Toiletries and FragranceAssociation, the content of which is incorporated into the presentpatent application by reference.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the pigmentsmay be treated or coated with a treatment agent.

The treatment agent may be chosen from alkoxysilanes, silicones such asmethicones, dimethicones, and perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids such asstearic acid; metal soaps such as aluminium dimyristate, the aluminiumsalt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate, perfluoroalkyl phosphates,perfluoroalkylsilanes, perfluoroalkylsilazanes, polyhexafluoropropyleneoxides, polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyethergroups, amino acids, N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin,isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof.

The N-acylamino acids may comprise an acyl group containing from 8 to 22carbon atoms, for instance a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl,myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. The salts of thesecompounds may be the aluminium, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc,sodium or potassium salts. The amino acid may be, for example, lysine,glutamic acid or alanine

According to a preferred variant, a composition according to theinvention may comprise a total content of pigments ranging from 0.01% to70% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight andpreferentially ranging from 0.01% to 40% by weight, relative to thetotal weight of the composition.

When it is a makeup product, a pigment content ranging from 0.01% to 40%by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 30% by weight and in particular from0.1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the saidcomposition will generally be used.

According to another embodiment variant, a composition according to theinvention may be free of pigments.

The pulverulent phase according to the invention may also comprise, ormay even be formed from, nacres and/or reflective particles.

The term “nacre” should be understood as meaning coloured particles ofany form, which may or may not be iridescent, especially produced bycertain molluscs in their shell, or alternatively synthesized, and whichhave a colour effect via optical interference.

Examples of nacres that may be mentioned include nacreous pigments suchas titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, mica coated with bismuthoxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, and nacreouspigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particlesat the surface of which are superposed at least two successive layers ofmetal oxides and/or of organic dyestuffs.

The nacres may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze,orangey, brown, gold and/or coppery colour or glint.

As illustrations of nacres that may be introduced into the composition,mention may be made of the gold-coloured nacres sold especially by thecompany Engelhard under the name Brilliant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C(Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarchgold 233X (Cloisonne); the bronze nacres sold especially by the companyMerck under the name Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353)(Colorona) and by the company Engelhard under the name Super bronze(Cloisonne); the orange nacres sold especially by the company Engelhardunder the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) andby the company Merck under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matteorange (17449) (Microna); the brown nacres sold especially by thecompany Engelhard under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) andBrown CL4509 (Chromalite); the nacres with a copper tint sold especiallyby the company Engelhard under the name Copper 340A (Timica); the nacreswith a red tint sold especially by the company Merck under the nameSienna fine (17386) (Colorona); the nacres with a yellow tint soldespecially by the company Engelhard under the name Yellow (4502)(Chromalite); the red nacres with a gold tint sold especially by thecompany Engelhard under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); the pinknacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Tan opaleG005 (Gemtone); the black nacres with a gold tint sold especially by thecompany Engelhard under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), theblue nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Matteblue (17433) (Microna), the white nacres with a silvery tint soldespecially by the company Merck under the name Xirona Silver, and thegolden-green pink-orange nacres sold especially by the company Merckunder the name Indian summer (Xirona), and mixtures thereof.

Still as examples of nacres, mention may also be made of particlescomprising a borosilicate substrate coated with titanium oxide.

Particles having a glass substrate coated with titanium oxide areespecially sold under the name Metashine MC1080RY by the company Toyal.

Finally, examples of nacres that may also be mentioned includepolyethylene terephthalate flakes, especially those sold by the companyMeadowbrook Inventions under the name Silver 1P 0.004X0.004 (silverflakes).

According to one particular variant, the compositions according to theinvention may comprise from 0 to 40%, for example 0.1% to 20% and betterstill 0.5% to 10% by weight of nacres. More preferentially, they containless than 40% by weight of nacres. According to one particularembodiment, the composition according to the invention is free ofnacres.

Finally, the colouring agent according to the invention may comprisereflective particles.

The term “reflective particles” denotes particles whose size, structure,especially the thickness of the layer(s) of which they are made andtheir physical and chemical nature, and surface state, allow them toreflect incident light. This reflection may, where appropriate, have anintensity sufficient to create at the surface of the composition or ofthe mixture, when it is applied to the support to be made up, points ofoverbrightness that are visible to the naked eye, i.e. more luminouspoints that contrast with their environment by appearing to sparkle.

The reflective particles may be selected so as not to significantlyalter the colouration effect generated by the colouring agents withwhich they are combined, and more particularly so as to optimize thiseffect in terms of colour yield. They may more particularly have ayellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and/or coppery colour ortint.

These particles may have varied forms and may especially be in plateletor globular form, in particular in spherical form.

The reflective particles, whatever their form, may or may not have amultilayer structure and, in the case of a multilayer structure, mayhave, for example, at least one layer of uniform thickness, inparticular of a reflective material.

When the reflective particles do not have a multilayer structure, theymay be composed, for example, of metal oxides, especially titanium oriron oxides obtained synthetically.

When the reflective particles have a multilayer structure, they maycomprise, for example, a natural or synthetic substrate, especially asynthetic substrate at least partially coated with at least one layer ofa reflective material, especially of at least one metal or metallicmaterial. The substrate may be made of one or more organic and/orinorganic materials.

More particularly, it may be chosen from glasses, ceramics, graphite,metal oxides, aluminas, silicas, silicates, especially aluminosilicatesand borosilicates, and synthetic mica, and mixtures thereof, this listnot being limiting.

The reflective material may comprise a layer of metal or of a metallicmaterial.

Reflective particles are described especially in documentsJP-A-09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 andJP-A-05017710.

Again as an example of reflective particles comprising a mineralsubstrate coated with a layer of metal, mention may also be made ofparticles comprising a silver-coated borosilicate substrate.

Particles with a silver-coated glass substrate, in the form ofplatelets, are sold under the name Microglass Metashine REFSX 2025 PS bythe company Toyal. Particles with a glass substrate coated withnickel/chromium/molybdenum alloy are sold under the name Crystal Star GF550 and GF 2525 by this same company.

Use may also be made of particles comprising a metallic substrate suchas silver, aluminium, iron, chromium, nickel, molybdenum, gold, copper,zinc, tin, manganese, steel, bronze or titanium, the said substratebeing coated with at least one layer of at least one metal oxide such astitanium oxide, aluminium oxide, iron oxide, cerium oxide, chromiumoxide or silicon oxides, and mixtures thereof.

Examples that may be mentioned include aluminium powder, bronze powderor copper powder coated with SiO₂ sold under the name Visionaire by thecompany Eckart.

Preferably, the pulverulent phase comprises at least one compound chosenfrom:

organic pigments such as, for example:

-   -   the pigments certified D&C by the Food & Drug Administration as        listed in the section “Color Additives—Batch Certified by the        U.S. Food and Drug Administration” of the CTFA; mention may be        made especially of Blue 1 and 4, Brown 1, Ext. Violet 2, Ext.        Yellow 7, Green 3, 5, 6 and 8, Orange 4, 5, 10 and 11, Red 4, 6,        7, 17, 21, 22, 27, 28, 30, 36 and 40, Violet 2, Yellow 5, 6, 7,        8, 10 and 11,

mineral pigments such as:

-   -   iron oxide, zirconium oxide, cerium oxide, zinc oxide, iron        oxide or chromium oxide,    -   ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, pink or violet,        chromium hydrate or chromium hydroxide,

nacres such as, for example:

-   -   mica coated with titanium oxide, mica coated with titanium oxide        and iron oxide, and mica coated with an amino acid such as        lauroyl lysine,    -   polyethylene terephthalate flakes,    -   sericite,    -   and mixtures thereof,

reflective particles such as, for example:

-   -   particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with a        metallic layer.

A composition according to the invention may also comprise water-solubleor liposoluble dyes in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight andespecially ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight relative to the totalweight of the composition.

The liposoluble dyes are, for example, Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6,β-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DCOrange 5 and quinoline yellow. The water-soluble dyes are, for example,beetroot juice or methylene blue.

A composition according to the invention may be in the form of a makeupcomposition product such as a nail varnish, a foundation, a liquidlipstick, a mascara, an anti-wrinkle composition, a skincarecomposition, or a haircare composition such as a lacquer, a stylinglotion or a styling spray.

As hair composition, a composition according to the invention may beused in particular to obtain a hairstyling, hairstyle hold or fixingeffect. In particular, the composition may be used for finishing orconstruction, on dry or wet hair, and optionally with the aid of aheating device.

Among such hair compositions, mention may be made of those for obtainingan improvement in the remanence of compounds inserted into the fibre(for example colorants), or for holding tight on the hair a compoundsuch as photoprotective screening agents or pigments orfriction-lowering compounds.

As skincare agent, a composition according to the invention may be usedfor resistance or beautifying purposes, for treating wounds, or forinjecting or antiwrinkle purposes for filling hollow areas of the skin.

A composition according to the invention is more preferentially a nailvarnish, the said nail varnish possibly being transparent or coloured.

As nail varnishes, mention may be made of a varnish base or a nailcareproduct.

A composition according to the invention comprises a physiologicallyacceptable medium.

The term “physiologically acceptable medium” means a non-toxic mediumthat may be applied to human keratin materials and that has a pleasantappearance, odour and feel.

Thus, the composition according to the present invention may be appliedeither by finger or by using a brush or a felt-tip pen. Such a pen isdescribed, for example, in document FR 2 909 844.

EXAMPLES

The examples given below are presented as non-limiting illustrations ofthe invention.

In the examples that follow, the references of the starting materialsused are listed below:

-   -   (N-cyclohexylaminomethyl)triethoxysilane: SIC2464.2 (Gelest)    -   (N-cyclohexylaminomethyl)methyldiethoxysilane: AB152160 (ABCR)    -   Equimolar mixture of 2,2,4-trimethylhexamethylene diisocyanate        and of 2,4,4-trimethylhexamethylene diisocyanate: Vestanat® TMDI        (Evonik)

Example 1 Compounds obtained by reaction between2,2,4-trimethylhexamethylene diisocyanate, 2,4,4-trimethylhexamethylenediisocyanate and (N-cyclohexylaminomethyl)triethoxysilane

The synthesis is performed according to the following reaction scheme:

An equimolar mixture of 2,2,4-trimethylhexamethylene diisocyanate and2,4,4-trimethylhexamethylene diisocyanate (100 g, 476 mmol) is added to(N-cyclohexylaminomethyl)triethoxysilane (262 g, 951 mmol) undernitrogen. The mixture is heated at 65° C. for 3 hours with stirring,under nitrogen. The mixture is then cooled to room temperature.

The compounds obtained are diluted to 50% under nitrogen in ethylacetate. The solution obtained is applied to a keratin material such asthe skin, the nails, the hair or the eyelashes, and forms, afterreaction with atmospheric moisture, a strong, adherent film.

Example 2 Compounds obtained by reaction between2,2,4-trimethylhexamethylene diisocyanate, 2,4,4-trimethylhexamethylenediisocyanate and (N-cyclohexylaminomethyl)methyldiethoxysilane

The synthesis is performed according to the following reaction scheme:

An equimolar mixture of 2,2,4-trimethylhexamethylene diisocyanate and2,4,4-trimethylhexamethylene diisocyanate (100 g, 476 mmol) is added to(N-cyclohexylaminomethyl)methyldiethoxysilane (232 g, 945 mmol) undernitrogen. The mixture is heated at 65° C. for 3 hours with stirring,under nitrogen. The mixture is then cooled to room temperature.

The compounds obtained are diluted to 50% under nitrogen in ethylacetate. The solution obtained is applied to a keratin material such asthe skin, the nails, the hair or the eyelashes, and forms, afterreaction with atmospheric moisture, a strong, adherent film.

1. A cosmetic composition, comprising a compound of formula (I):

where: m represents an integer of 0 or 1; n represents an integer offrom 2 to 8; R1 represents a (C₁-C₂₀)alkyl group, an aryl group, oroptionally a carbonyl group when m is 0; R2 and R3 represent an ethoxygroup or a (C₁-C₂₀)alkyl group, optionally substituted with an aminogroup; and Y represents a polyurea, a polyurethane, or ahydrocarbon-based group comprising from 2 to 100 carbon atoms, whereinthe hydrocarbon-based group is optionally a linear or branchedmonovalent or multivalent, optionally unsaturated group, and optionallybears one or more aromatic or non-aromatic cyclic groups, the carbonatoms are optionally substituted with one or more groups selected fromthe group consisting of an ethoxy group and an amino group, one or moreof the carbon atoms are optionally independently replaced with anitrogen atom, a carbonyl group, a —SiO— group, or apolydimethylsiloxane group:

where z is a number of from 1 to 20 and the hydrocarbon-based groupoptionally forms with R1 one or more rings.
 2. The composition accordingto claim 1, wherein R1 represents a carbonyl group, and Y represents apolyurea; a polyurethane; a group chosen from one of the groups offormulae (II) to (XXIII) below when m is 0 or 1; or a group chosen fromone of the groups of chemical formulae (XXIV) to (XXVII) below when m is0:

where: x is a number of from 1 to 10; when m is 1, x is 3; and when m is0, x is a number of from 2 to 4;

where y is a number of from 1 to 6;

where: R7 represents a (C₁-C₂₀)alkyl group, an aryl group, or a(C₁-C₂₀)alkylene group linked to R1; and R8 and R9 independentlyrepresent an ethoxy group or a (C₁-C₂₀)alkyl group optionallysubstituted with an amino group;

where: X₁ and X₂ independently represent a covalent bond linked to R1,which is a carbonyl group; and A represents a (C₁-C₂₀)alkylene group, acarbonyl group or a polydimethylsiloxane of formula

where z is optionally a number of from 1 to 20;

where X₃ and X₄ independently represent a covalent bond linked to R1,which is a carbonyl group;

where X₅ and X₆ independently represent a covalent bond linked to R1,which is a carbonyl group;

where: X₇ represents a covalent bond linked to R1, which is a carbonylgroup; and R10, R11, R12 and R13 independently represent an ethoxy groupor a (C₁-C₂₀)alkyl group optionally substituted with an amino group. 3.The composition according to claim 1, wherein Y has a molar mass of lessthan 3000 g/mol.
 4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein n is anumber of from 2 to
 4. 5. The composition according to claim 1, whereinR1 represents a cyclohexyl or phenyl group.
 6. The composition accordingto claim 1, wherein m is 0 and R1 represents a carbonyl group linked viaa covalent bond to one atom of Y.
 7. The composition according to claim1, wherein R2 and R3 independently represent a methyl group, a(C₁-C₃)aminoalkyl group, or an ethoxy group.
 8. The compositionaccording to claim 1, wherein m is
 1. 9. The composition according toclaim 1, wherein Y is a hydrocarbon-based group consisting of carbon andhydrogen atoms.
 10. The composition according to claim 1, wherein Y is asaturated hydrocarbon-based group consisting of carbon and hydrogenatoms.
 11. The composition according to claim 2, wherein Y is a group offormula (III), (IV) or (V).
 12. The composition according to claim 1,wherein the compound of formula (I) is present in the composition in acontent of greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to a totalweight of the composition.
 13. The composition according to claim 1,wherein the composition is anhydrous.
 14. The composition according toclaim 1, wherein the composition has a solids content of greater than orequal to 50%.
 15. The composition according to claim 1, furthercomprising: a compound comprising an alkoxysilane group, a plasticizeroptionally selected from the group consisting of a fatty alcohol, acarboxylic acid ester, and a polyester, a film-forming polymeroptionally selected from the group consisting of a cellulose derivative,a polyester, and a polyurethane, a wax, a pasty fatty substance, apulverulent phase comprising a filler and/or a colouring agentcomprising pigments, nacres, reflective particles, or colorants that aresoluble in polar solvents, and/or a mixture thereof.
 16. The compositionaccording to claim 15, wherein the colouring agent is present in acontent ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to a total weightof the composition.
 17. The composition according to claim 1, furthercomprising: at least one polar volatile solvent selected from the groupconsisting of a lower monoalcohol from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a C₃-C₄ketone, a C₂-C₄ aldehyde, and a C₂-C₄ short-chain ester.
 18. Thecomposition according to claim 1, wherein the composition is optionallya makeup composition.
 19. A cosmetic method, comprising: applying thecomposition according to claim 1 to a keratin material.
 20. Thecomposition according to claim 18, wherein the composition is a nailvarnish, a foundation, a liquid lipstick, a mascara, an anti-wrinklecomposition, a skin care composition, or a hair care composition. 21.The method according to claim 19, wherein the method is a method formaking up nails and/or hair.